#11
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Thanks for the comments. The more I looked at the chunks, the more I thought insects...great to have that confirmed, and to know that the rifle was not badly handled.
The tang safety is not completely silent, of course, but it is much quieter than any Ruger #1 I've handled, and quieter than my Dakota M10; for comparison, much closer in feel to the latter. TBR |
#12
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I've had two No.1's (223 Rem & 270 Weatherby) and more than a few of the old tang safety 77's. Trying to ease the safety forward and still Snniickk .
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#13
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I loaded up a few dummy .221 rounds and placed them in the Sako/Crusader .222 magazine. No worries here; hardly worth even considering a block in the magazine, even with the bullet seated pretty deeply:
To the extent I could, I tried to feed the rounds into the chamber by pushing the bolt forward; the dummies stripped and fed as slick as owl flop, as far as they could go into the chamber: So, it looks like we have a go, Houston. In the meantime, a very generous member here has allowed me the use of some dies, so I will be able to shoot this soon, IF it really is a .17 Javelina chamber . I'll post some progress pics as I contour, thread, chamber, and fit the new Shilen barrel...probably a few weeks from now. I still can't find my tight-necked .221 reamer, though...dang! I will dance at his next two weddings if someone has one and will lend it to me. TBR Last edited by Teddy Bear Rat; 03-06-2019 at 03:19 PM. |
#14
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I think the larvae of a clothes moth will go after items with hair. Horns,wool items,felt hats, taxidermy mounts. The rifle may have spent some time in a closet.
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#15
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Repairing the beetle damage
If the black horn inlay is truly ebony black then the best repair/filler is to use a quality epoxy with a dye mixed in the epoxy. If you use shavings, paint pigment or toner powder, or some combination to tint the epoxy the results may be inconsistent in appearance and texture. It has been my experience that these techniques are adequate for filling imperfections or voids in woodwork, but would be less than satisfactory where a mirror finish is desired.
Both the epoxy and epoxy dye used by marine/boat construction are hard to beat. Use a quality epoxy, such as West Marine or System Three, which will hold up better and is not as brittle as a inexpensive 5-minute epoxy. The black epoxy dye used to tint the epoxy/fiberglass boat hull is top notch. A few drops turns the epoxy mixture as black as night. I bought a small sample bottle for filling voids in my wood turnings. A little goes a long way. |
#16
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Wow, speak of the devil!...so to speak . I was just about to solicit opinions about the proper dye for blackening epoxy resins. I was prepared to set up to retrieve ebony dust from my belt sander to use as colorant, so I'm glad I didn't go to that trouble. I had no intention of using 5-minute epoxy, but your recommendations are very helpful. No plans to go gloss finish, however. So, how little epoxy and dye can I buy, and where should I look for it? Is there a brand of epoxy dye I can search?
Thanks TBR |
#17
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TBR: Any good marine/boat shop should have it. Check out the brand Marine Tec and the dyes. Guessing this is what is being talked about. Bill K
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