#1
|
|||
|
|||
Rifle Cleaning Input Sought...
Over the years I have done all kinds of cleaning methods. I'd like to hear from the benchrest experts out there your tips.
1. How many many rounds do you clean after when shooting? 2. Do you use a brass core bronze bristle brush, nylon, or no brush? 3. What are the best brand and size of patches you have found for 6.5 caliber. 4. Do you get better results with square or round patches and what kind of of jag (I hate thin patches that shed)? 5. What are the best solvents, oils, carbon removers you have found? (full disclosure: I love Wipe-Out) On my new Savage Model 12 LRP in .260 Rem. I just finished the below process as suggested by Savage for their rifles. I used KG-1 to remove the carbon and KG-12 to remove the copper. Also, used Rem. Oil for the last patch each round. Bore guide, too. And Dewey rod. There may be different schools of thought on barrel break-in, however, this is what Precision Shooting Magazine recommends: STEP 1 (repeated 10 times) Fire one round •Push wet patches soaked with a powder solvent through the bore •Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction) •Push dry patches through the bore (2 times) •Push wet patches soaked with a copper solvent through the bore •Push a brush through the bore (5 times in each direction) •Push dry patches through the bore (2 times) •Push a patch with 2 drops of oil through the bore STEP 2 (repeated 5 times) Fire a 3 shot group•Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 after each group STEP 3 (repeat 5 times) Fire a 5 shot group•Repeat the cleaning procedure from STEP 1 They recommend the use of a patch with 2 drops of oil after the cleaning so that you are not shooting with a dry bore. It is also advisable to use a powder solvent and copper solvent from the same manufacturer to be sure they are chemically compatible. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I clean after every outing using a jag and patch. No solvent. If the bore feels rough or if the groups have opened up then it gets the full treatment using bronze brushes, KG 1 and then KG 2. Extended soaking is key. If the bore still feels rough - repeat.
A great deal can be learned about bore condition using only a good fitting jag/patch and a sensitive hand. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Except for my factory rimfires, all my barrels are aftermarket ones. I work on the fouling and carbon first, then copper. In my experience with custom barrels, copper has never been much of an issue. Carbon is the bad guy for me and I use the brass wire core bronze brushes on it. As far as frequency of cleaning, I'd say that depends on your barrel.
Last edited by Hog Patrol; 04-24-2014 at 12:23 PM. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|