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  #51  
Old 10-04-2015, 01:18 AM
tdoyka tdoyka is offline
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he done real, real good!!!!
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  #52  
Old 10-04-2015, 04:27 PM
Alex Alex is offline
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Smile Harold, I'm major jealous!

Not just of the rifle, but your being able to go out and do the shooting.

My escapades with custom rifles hasn't been nearly as successful as yours, but have had some beauties. Mostly with Coopers. Never with the sophistication of bench equipment you use.

I did find that my major success accuracy tuning several of my Vartarg 20's occurred with the 32 grain Blitzkings and either N-120 or N-130. Wish you could have found some to try. I wonder if you have tried LT-30, but it might be too fast for the heavier bullets you've been shooting.

I've had a lot of fun following you on this thread. Wish the pics were still visible.

Keep it up!

Alex
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  #53  
Old 10-05-2015, 07:18 AM
kenbro kenbro is offline
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Harold,
I'm sure there is good reason, but, I don't know it. Why is the scope so high above the barrel?
Regards,Ken.
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  #54  
Old 10-05-2015, 05:53 PM
Kevin Gullette Kevin Gullette is offline
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Thumbs up Harold......

Quirks.........I see we share one.

Except I I.D. lapped ring halves a bit differently. Mine are on the opposite side, and are centerpunch hits......one on the front and two on the rear......in between the ring halves. Once assembled.....they are hidden.

Ya made that neck turning gearmotor yet???

Kevin
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  #55  
Old 10-06-2015, 10:11 AM
kenbro kenbro is offline
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Thanks, Harold,
I didn't know free recoil was used for conventional rifles. I always think 'Machine' when someone mentions free recoil.
Ken.
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  #56  
Old 10-06-2015, 04:51 PM
ramos ramos is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold M View Post
I have been asking around to find the necessary parts without much success. One friend suggested I bite the bullet and buy the Sinclair machine. But $400 seems a bit salty.

Bruce built my rifle, and put a lot of extra effort into it such as the lapping and match-marking the rings. Local woodchucks seem to appreciate his efforts.

Harold

Love Sinclair Int. and their products. However before you drop the coin on their Power Center, look for a good deal on a used Sherline lathe. Will do everything the Power Center will and much, much more. Plus, you get the versatility of variable speed DC drive. I looked and looked for a reasonable gear reduction motor to purchase. Everything I found (new) was either too expensive or of questionable torque strength. I am really glad I went the route I did. Huge, huge gain in what can be done with it.
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  #57  
Old 07-29-2016, 01:57 AM
Kevin Gullette Kevin Gullette is offline
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Thumbs up So.......Harold.......

I told ya so.........how many times???!!!

Sweet.....huh?

Kevin
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  #58  
Old 11-03-2016, 02:35 AM
michaeljp65 michaeljp65 is offline
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Default freebore measurement?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold M View Post
Live varmint rifles in 20 VarTarg that our gunsmith had built – including mine – shoot well. We discussed making a target rifle based on the cartridge. The idea of a benchrest rifle that moves in the bags half as much as the 6ppc while the bullet was in the barrel – for the same weight rifle – was an intriguing concept. Giving up only about 8% wind drift would seem to be a reasonable price to pay for a rifle so much less affected by “table manners.” The rifle in the above picture was his spare time project based on those thoughts.

The Rifle:
Kelbly Stolle Panda action – right bolt, left port, no ejector.
Hart barrel – one in twelve twist; 23” long
Standard 20 VT chamber (same reamer as my Alpine)
McMillan stock – action bolted in
Jewell trigger
Kelbly rings
Leupold 40X competition scope with dot
Weight: under 10 ½ lb.

Ammunition:
Berger 35 and 40 grain bullets. Cases formed from Lapua 222 match brass and necks turned to 0.013 in. The H-4198 powder pretty much fills the case to the bullet base. All charges were thrown with a Harrell measure. Federal 205M primers.

Shooting impressions:
Break-in took only a couple of shots. As of now, after 175 or so rounds, there is no blue on the patches. The rifle returns to battery noticeably better than a 6ppc. I use a rhythm that I learned from watching Milt Craven – open bolt, insert new round, on the way out, pull the fired case off the bolt face, close bolt. Upon completion, more often than not, the cross hairs were back on the mothball. It’s really a pleasant rifle to shoot.

All the groups shot are in the table. All are five-shot groups.

Regards,

Harold
Gday Harold.
What is the freebore measurement on your full up BR rifle?
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  #59  
Old 11-03-2016, 11:53 PM
michaeljp65 michaeljp65 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold M View Post
The reamer was ordered to the Todd Kindler print. That would mean 0.032 from where the cylindrical neck ends, to where the cylindrical portion of the point where the throat ends and the taper to the bore diameter starts. Or, 0.019 from where the taper from the neck to the lead ends, to where the lead ends.
Thanks for your reply Harold.
Im getting a BR rifle made very similar to your Full up BR rig. Panda action, lilja 11 twist and mcmillan stock, but its the reamer print that im worried about.
I had a tikka hunting rifle rebarelled to 20VT and the reamer the smith used has a .050" freebore. When i seat the 40gn bergers to touch the lands i have only .058" of shank in the case neck, and the 35gn bergers are only a bit deeper.
Ive been emailing PT&G and the last reamer print they sent suggested a 0 freebore. But im thinking that not be the best way to go.

In your honest opinion seeing that you shoot a 20VT in competition, if you were to get a new rifle built and using either 35 or 40gn bergers, what would you specify the freebore to be? Would you leave it as it is at .032" on top and .019" on the bottom as shown on the Todd Kindler reamer print?

The Todd Kindler reamer print you mention is the print dated 4/15/2010? I cant work out how to add images here or else i would add the reamer print to see if its the same.

Cheers Michael

Last edited by michaeljp65; 11-04-2016 at 03:31 AM.
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  #60  
Old 11-04-2016, 12:22 PM
ray h ray h is offline
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Why not buy the reamer with the throat removed and then get a separate throating reamer. Seat your bullets where you want them in the case. Your smith should be able to throat it exactly . You can't trust getting a reamer from them with the required throat.
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