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  #1  
Old 01-18-2007, 08:50 PM
nathan nathan is offline
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Default Re-barreled Sako finally back home.

Actually, it's been here a week or so, but I've been too busy to get much shooting or pics taken. I had the sporter barrel replaced w/ a Lilja 3groove, 12twist, chambered for 223AI. I'm pretty happy at how it came out...hope it shoots like I think it should (haven't shot anything but factory 223 so far). Also, what is the appropriate way to bed one of these actions? Anyone have pics of a completed bedding project on a small sako? Thanks.[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:51 PM
nathan nathan is offline
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Default One more shot...

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Old 01-18-2007, 08:53 PM
Mntngoat Mntngoat is offline
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Default

Looks good Nathan who dis the barrel work and who makes the stock?

ML
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:01 PM
nathan nathan is offline
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Default work..

I had the barrel chambered and installed by a fellow that works for Lilja. Matt Cockrell does this work afterhours as it is not one of Lilja's offered services. I'm no expert, but it sure looks like quality work to me. The stock is the original factory version, widened to accept the new barrel.
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:54 PM
Pat Cameron Pat Cameron is offline
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WOW, NICE TOY.
I was just going to post a thread looking for a SAKO bolt with a 223 bolt face and here is this piece of eye candy.
Good luck with your new piece. Hope to see some more pics with small groups and perhaps some nice predators.

Pat Cameron
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:24 PM
Alex Alex is offline
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Default Looks like you...

... put a Weaver V-16 on it, too. 223AI is a real wallopping piece. I have the best results with 50 gr. Blitzkings and a heap of N-133 in mine. Use WSR primers while I'm working up loads.

I've used Norma, LC-01, and Winchester 223 brass in mine. Doesn't seem to mind which, but the capacity of the brass is important, the different brasses requiring different (by about half a grain) powder amounts to "peak out" the accuracy.

Have an older Riimihki (sp) 223 that I willl take a pic of the bedding in for you, but not tonight. It's a beautiful job, but remember, it is also a single shot.

Alex
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:49 PM
1fifer1 1fifer1 is offline
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Hi Nathan very nice job, now this might be a bit forward of me but could you tell me how much a job like that costs, i have the same rifle in .17 rem and love it but to get it rebarreled here in the UK would cost about ...wait for it.....£600, that includes reproofing etc. of course! about the same as i paid for the rifle in the first place! that HURTS, anyhow thanks for any information
cheers
Jim
UK

Last edited by 1fifer1; 01-18-2007 at 11:08 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-19-2007, 01:24 AM
nathan nathan is offline
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Default pics..

Thanks for the pic offer. I think it was someone on here that told me earlier not to bed a certain area, so I wanted to double check before I made a mess.
As for brass, I've just finished off a box of Black Hills w/ LC brass that I figured would be good for starters. I have a TON of federal brass (once-fired), but I've been told it's on the soft side. Guess I'll just keep them for the other 223 and push the LC and WIN brass through the AI.
Sorry on the cost question, I really don't know. It was a gift to me (if you can believe that), so I didn't ask questions. I know his barrels are typically in the $300 range w/ $125 or so tacked on for fluting. Not sure what Matt is charging for chambering/fitting? Sorry.
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  #9  
Old 01-19-2007, 02:08 AM
BJS BJS is offline
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I have messed with a few Sako's in the past and it has been my experience that if they are bedded so that the bedding comes up the sides of the action, so as to wedge the action in the bedding, they will string shots horizontally. If the bedding touches at the rear vertical area of the tang they will string shots vertically.

I don't know how a professional would bed that rifle but I'd put a couple of layers of thick electrical tape on the sides of the action (at least enough to avoid bedding contact and so you can still get it in the stock with the tape on to bed it) and on the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug and also around the rear of the tang.

The end result wants to be flat bedding contact on the front flat area of the action just behind the recoil lug and on the underside of the tang and also at the rear face of the recoil lug. Those are the only areas that should be touching the bedding. The taped areas mentioned above will keep the bedding away from the metal. Of course you can remove some bedding material after the job is finished but having some clearance already makes life easier.

That at least has been my experience on how the Sako's shoot best and it seems to make perfect sense to me that it works that way.

Bryce
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  #10  
Old 01-19-2007, 02:30 AM
nathan nathan is offline
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Default Thanks Bryce

Much appreciated.
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