20 Vartarg help

[Russell]

I think I found this here and saved it on my computer.

The 20VT is the easiest of any to form brass for. The procedure is super simple:

1- Buy 100 pieces (well, 1000 if you're going to take this rifle on a PD hunt) of 221FB brass, the Redding FL 20VT or FL type S bushing die (Hornady makes one but it resizes the body too much), and a set of Redding Competition case holders and a tube of Lee sizing lube.

2 - Lube all of the cases with the Lee lube. Make sure you put just a touch INSIDE the neck (this will lube the expander ball). Leave the cases in a plastic container (butter tub, etc.) at least overnight. This stuff has to dry, as it is a "deep draw" commercial die lube, repackaged by Lee. If you use it still wet, you are liable to get dents in your cases.

3 - IMPORTANT: Wait for your rifle to arrive!

4 - Put the first 0.010 Redding case holder in the press, set the die for mild cam-over contact. Place the first case in the press and simply pull the press handle down all the way, then back up! Voila, your first formed case. Try it in the rifle. It will probably not chamber, as the shoulder will be too far forward. Try the 0.008 case holder, 0.006, 0.004, etc. until the case lets the bolt go down with just a bare touch of resistance. Then put a piece of Scotch tape on the base and try chambering it again. The mylar tape is about 2 thou thick and should cause it to be noticably harder to close the bolt. NOW YOU'VE GOT IT! Write down in your load notebook what case holder this rifle needs.

5 - With the setup you've just found, do the other 99 (999?) cases. You might want to get several of the Midway #504 cartridge boxes for your new brass. I prefer the 50 round boxes.

6 - The three powders that guys hereabouts like for the 20VT are N-120, N-130, and RL-7.

7 - The easiest bullets to find for the 20VT are the Hornady and Blitzking 32's. I personally think the BK's are easier to get to shoot. I like the older, no longer available VMax 33's and major stash of them.

8 - You can use a Wilson seater (requires an arbor press, plus you should also get the Sinclair micrometer head for it), a Hornady seater (make sure you also order the Hornady micrometer die head), or the Redding Competition seater. I have all three and while I prefer the Redding, the Hornady works fine, and the Wilson probably gives the least runout.

What else would you like to know?

Alex

[Bob Acker]

Anyone have any idea what caused the ring where the case wall meets the shoulder on the blackened case. Thats what seems to be holding things up.
Bob

[foxhunter]

case body may be to long or you may be pushing the shoulder back which bulges the case at the body shoulder junction. either will keep tjhe case from chambering.
as to the neck, measure the case neck thickness and double it plus the bullet diameter, that will give you neck thickness.

i have to use a body die to push the shoulder back on a 6 br i have, the bushing die just won't get the job done.

sacrifice a case, put the case thru the body die and keep turning it down to see if the case will chamber.
if the neck is not to thick and the body length is not the problem cast the chamber and take some measurments.

[trotterlg]

I think you will find that the ring is caused by trying to push the shoulder back too far with the bushing die, this pushes the shoulder back into the body which expands it so that it will not allow the case to go far enough into the chamber to seat on the shoulder. If you have a normal 22 FB die one pass with it will fix it, I have the same issue with my 20BR. If you are using a neck only die, try it with the full length die. Larry

[SS427]

I had the same problem. Just had to bump the shoulder back a couple thousands more. If I recall, I had to cam over pretty good with my Rockchucker press using a standard Redding shell holder. I use a Redding full length bushing die. I use a .228 bushing and I'm pretty sure my Cooper was sold with a .232 chamber, although fired brass measure right at .232. With spring back, probably more like a .233 chamber. Certainly not a .234 chamber...as I don't think the brass could spring back a full .002.

[signals1]

I had the same issue, run it through a body die and it should chamber as long as your necks are turned down enough. After I ran through body die it chambered fine. Stick with it sir, the VT is a dandy of a round.

[trapperdan]

I agree with SS427.I have to cam over real hard to get the shoulder back using a redding body die. I run the ram up, screw the die down until it touches, run the ram back down and screw the die down another 1/4 -1/3 turn and lock it there. works for me.

[georgeld]

Guess I got lucky for once on mine. Bought 500 each 17 and 221 Rem brass. Just ran them thru the FL sizer and loaded 'em. Haven't fired many, but, around 30 or so sorting powder charges for both 32 and 39's. All chambered just fine. Cooper M38 single shot.

Like it's been said a couple times, lube the case and run it thru the FL die and should be solved. That mark on the shoulder is where it's touching/binding in the chamber. That's the whole idea of painting a case like that. Shows where there's contact. With that known, then you've got a starting point toward fixing it.

Good luck, let us know how it works once you FL size the case.

[Gale Johnson]

On the Remington brass for the first firing I had to go through the body die and then a Hornady FLS(wouldn't fit just throught the FLS). I have a 17 Fireball Neck Die with the proper neck bushing ready to go for the second loading.

[Bob Acker]

Thanks to all for sharing your knowledge. With you help I've managed to get a few cases that will chamber but not extract and eject which would seem to be a little to much bump. I believe I'm getting close, and with a little adjustment should be there.
Again thanks to all for the help, this is truly a great a great forum.
Bob