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  #11  
Old 06-29-2022, 02:26 PM
fatboy fatboy is offline
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Son and his wife have a baby coming in Oct. so he is putting off getting the dies for right now, but this will give me time to get bedding and pillars. He will be getting a set of redding competition dies and I think a .254 bushing. He has some brass, just have to work up a load. Shot some factory remington at 100 and got about a 1.5 group. The gun has an old redfield 12x with turrets, not sure what scope he will put on in the future. Am interested in seeing what size groups we will get. I just bedded his marlin hmr and with the right lot of ammo it was getting 3/8 groups of 4 out of 5 and then I would end up with a flyer to open up the 5 shot group. One lot of ammo was splitting necks.
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  #12  
Old 06-29-2022, 07:13 PM
JDHasty JDHasty is offline
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Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
After measuring I believe that the problem would be the pillars are too short. I believe I can make a spacer, or was thinking about using the bedding as a filler on the bottom of the stock, in the hole. Think a spacer would be best. I believe either way, I may still have to bed, under the trigger guard, and the front mag plate. I like remingtons.
That is what I suspected after talking to a couple friends. What I would do is get a couple bolts that fit and use electrical tape at the action end and a compression washer for copper water feed line at the other end to center the pillars and nuts and washers to hold them in place while you glue both pillars in place in the stock. Then I would bed the action and floor plate using Devcon Steel.

Last edited by JDHasty; 06-29-2022 at 10:25 PM.
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2022, 07:41 PM
Al Nyhus Al Nyhus is offline
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Originally Posted by fatboy View Post
After measuring I believe that the problem would be the pillars are too short. I believe I can make a spacer, or was thinking about using the bedding as a filler on the bottom of the stock....
A two piece pillar is a guaranteed disaster in the long term. As is not having enough clearance around the action screws.

On the Rugers, I make the pillars with a .312 (5/16") inside diameter and use a flanged sleeve that's .312" O.D. and .250" I.D. to center the action screws.

Other than the 45 degree angle on the front, it's just Bedding 101. A long guide pin in the front to center the action screw in the front pillar as the receiver goes down and back is a must. Once it's in far enough to start the rear guide pin into the treads, bring it it all the way in and then insert the rear flanged sleeve from the bottom.

Hope this helps. -Al

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  #14  
Old 06-29-2022, 08:53 PM
fatboy fatboy is offline
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Ok, no spacer, or two piece pillar. Would bedding compound work to fill the extra space on the bottom side? I would make my own but unsure about getting the right angle, for the front. After looking at it I believe that just a set of pillars that are longer than needed, and just fit them may be the best approach. It seems to just be about getting the angle just right.

Last edited by fatboy; 06-29-2022 at 09:18 PM.
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  #15  
Old 06-29-2022, 11:44 PM
barretcreek barretcreek is offline
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When a friend bedded my 77V with adjustable trigger and bolt lock some compound got into the cutout for the bolt lock. With the action out of the stock, cock the bolt and engage the tang safety. You'll see the problem.
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  #16  
Old 06-30-2022, 12:49 AM
fatboy fatboy is offline
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I took it out, and bolt stayed locked down, I looked at the used stock and someone took a little material off the wood, where the rod slides. They either took too much off and the rod kicks out slightly or not enough and it binds. It worked perfect with the original factory stock. I can not find a mark on the metal on this gun anywhere, and the original stock is stained a little around the bolt handle, but is really nice. That is why I did not want to butcher such a nice stock. My own thought is he should have put it in the safe.
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  #17  
Old 06-30-2022, 02:31 AM
JDHasty JDHasty is offline
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How I would do it is to get a piece of inch dowel to clamp the scope rings to so I could work in the barreled action clamped upside down in a vise and have seen this to work best.

Then I would make sure the action and barrel are free to go in and out of the stock without any binding anywhere.

To bore the action bolt holes through for the pillars I have a piece of 3/4 plywood on my drill press table and put tight fitting twist drill in each hole and then using wedges, clamps or whatever (a pad of post it you can peel down to the right height) and with the bit held in the chuck get it all lined up and the stock locked down tight. Then I raise the chuck and replace the twist drill with the right Forstner bit and drill it through. It’s going to take a bit of doing on that 45 degree hole unless you have a radial arm drill press like mine. But just take your time and you will get it figured out.

Then I use tape close to the action and a brass compression sleeve on a bolt or all thread to solidly attach the pillars to the action. The compression sleeves are tapered on both ends and center it up. On a normal action I will goop them up after attaching them both to the action then slip the stock down over them and use surgical rubber tube to very lightly hold everything in place for a couple days while it cures. With the Ruger angled screw it complicates matters.

I’m thinking that if you goop up the rear screw and slip the stock over it then screw the front screw in you can use one of the big syringes that you can get from Boyd’s and inject Devcon or whatever you like to use in around the front pillar.

Once the pillars are set is when I relieve the wood for clearance of the bedding compound then bed the action with the stock cinched down to the pillars.

I would think if you did it that way the very last thing you would do is bed the bottom metal using Devcon Steel and if there was any gap the Devcon would fill it in. I would just wrap the action screws with electrical tape to fit the holes through pillars all the way from just under the bottom metal to where they screw into the action to keep the bedding compound out of the pillars.

Last edited by JDHasty; 07-01-2022 at 03:26 PM.
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  #18  
Old 06-30-2022, 08:21 PM
fatboy fatboy is offline
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Bolt lock was making contact with the stock, fixed that. As for the pillars, the reason I was told they will not work is because of the trigger on the vt. I saw on line how it would get in the way of the back of the trigger. Simple fix looks to be take as much as needed off the pillar where it will make contact. May need a notch or just ground flat on one side. Won't know till I get the pillars and try. The other thing I noticed is the front hole was drilled out by the previous owner of the replacement stock, it was drilled as though someone was going to bring the bolt straight up from the bottom as you would a normal action. The extra amount they took out will be where the pillar is. After looking at this arrangement I am suprised that some one is not converting these recoil lug to a standard design.

Last edited by fatboy; 06-30-2022 at 08:36 PM.
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  #19  
Old 06-30-2022, 09:31 PM
JDHasty JDHasty is offline
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"After looking at this arrangement I am suprised that some one is not converting these recoil lug to a standard design."

Trust me. It's a really good system, particularly if not epoxy bedded. I remember way back in the 1960's and 1970's the Rugers were pretty easy to get shooting by using an inch pound torque wrench on that angled front stock bolt and getting consistent pressure and their barrels left a hell of a lot to be desired.

I had a couple and one of them I was able to shoot a 165 gr '06 bullet down the neck of a beer bottle and knock the bottom out at a hundred yards practically every time w/o chipping the neck. It was uncannily accurate for one or two shots from a cold barrel.

I never pillar bedded one, but think that the only part of it that would be out of the ordinary would be getting the pillars set so that they are right where THEY want to be. After that it looks like a very easy action to to a good job on. You can probably slot that rear pillar lengthwise with a square or rat tail file and get all the clearance you need.

The Remington 788 has a stud silbrazed to the rear of the action and the trigger is really close on it. The rear pillar on it is not a big deal to work around.

Last edited by JDHasty; 07-01-2022 at 03:26 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-01-2022, 01:26 AM
Danny Danny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDHasty View Post
My buddy says the 77VT is the Varmint Tactical. He has a hella bunch of M77 rifles and is stumped. He’s going to take a look and see if he can figure out what would account for a difference in bedding pillars.

He got back and said it could be a Varmint Target. The VT Varmint Tactical and VLE Varmint Law Enforcement have a two stage trigger in them.
It would probably be a good idea to stop using your buddy as a reference on these.
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