Handloading the 218 Ruger Bee

[pitted bore]

In this forum over the past 10 years there have been discussions of techniques for loading the "218 Ruger Bee". Description of various special tweaks are scattered piecemeal over multiple threads.

I tried to find the pertinent threads and have assembled the following protocol based on their content. Please comment, particularly about errors, omissions, or misinterpretations.

1. Begin with a case from a cartridge fired in the Ruger No.1 of interest. The case should be a Winchester case of recent (post-1950) manufacture.

2. Deprime the case.

3. Lightly lube the inside of the neck. Avoid getting the lubricant on the outside of the case. (When processing cases in batches, it may be adequate to lube only one of every 4-5 cases. The expander button retains lube for the intervening unlubed cases.)

4. Using a Hornady FL sizing die with the expander button in place, size only about 3/16" to 1/4" of the neck.

5. Prime with Winchester Small Rifle or Fed 105M primer.

6. Charge case with Lil'Gun powder. (If developing a load start at 14.0 grains, and work with increments of 0.2 grains.)

7. Use jacketed .224 40-grain plastic-tipped bullets. (e.g. Nosler Ballisic Tip, Hornady VMax, or Sierra BlitzKing.)

8. Bullets should be seated as long as possible but without touching lands. (Several techniques exist for determining this length.) Use Hornady seating die to seat the bullets.

9. Crimp bullets firmly using Lee Factory Crimp Die.

Thanks.

--Bob

[Dean2]

Two alternates

I prefer to use a bushing neck die only and neck size 3/8" of the neck. I want about 3-4 thou of tension. You don't need to lube the necks inside or out with this approach which gives you a more consistent neck tension than lube on every 3rd or 4th case. The lube doesn't go away and reduces that actual neck tension which opens up your groups.

Use small pistol primers and you don't need to crimp the bullets.

[Daryl]

1 though 9 are the method I used - for some 7,500 rounds- with exciting BALLISTICS and no-case loss to expanded primer pockets or split necks - the non-lubing the outside of the case was allowable due to the rather tight chamber (perhaps) in my rifle not allowing much expansion the brass, along with, or due to the small amount of case that actually touched the die's interior when only sizing a short section of the neck. Only sizing 1/2 (or so) of the neck, leaves a sort of double shoulder. The normal shoulder of the case chamber, along with the short shoulder caused by only sizing 1/2 of the neck. They must help in alignment of the case in the chamber - it all works together, I assume, in the production of accuracy.

I am in full agreement with Dean2 on using a Redding bushing die instead of 'short stroking' in the FL die. All lubing would be eliminated.

I did much the same system and steps with the CZ .22 Hornet. Seating the bullet out as far as possible, yet crimping with the Lee Factory Crimp die. With that die, you do not need a crimp groove (cannelure).

[pitted bore]

Dean2 and Daryl-

I certainly appreciate your responding to my original post. I tried to summarize the steps for the Lil'Gun loads that Daryl and others have described on this forum. The various techniques specific to creating these loads were scattered across multiple threads over the last decade. My summary post was intended to allow experienced Ruger Bee shooters to indicate if I missed some key element in the procedure.

I have done some preliminary reloading for my Ruger No.1, and thought about possible alternatives to neck lubrication in the neck sizing step. I have briefly and incompletely experimented with partial neck sizing of Bee cases, using a 22 Hornet Lee Collet die with suitable washer-shims. Satisfactory neck tension escapes my eforts, but I plan to work further with this technique.

I cannot find that Redding currently lists a 218 Bee neck bushing die, although I'm sure they could produce one with adequate financial inducement. Ditto for CH4D and Forster. Wilson's bushing die for the Bee may be the easiest answer if the collet die doesn't work out.

Thanks.
--Bob

[Kiwishooter]

Pitted bore any sizing die, neck die or body die can be converted to a "bushing" die, Jim Carstenson does it and so do a few others.

This is one way of getting a bushing die that isn't commercially made.......Kiwi

[caithness77]

While I don't suggest that I'm a know it all when it comes to reloading, I do have experience of reloading 218Bee in four different Ruger #1s.
I use a Hornady New Dimension FL Die, but I only bump the neck half way down. Between using this method and using 12 grains of Alliant 2400 powder pushing 40 grain Hornady V-Max. All these rifle, regardless of factory chambering or replacement match barrels. It's a recipe that just seems to work.
Redding do make a Neck Die for the 218Bee, though I've only seen it in a set, I believe the Redding part number is 84200 for the three die set.

Cheers,
Stu in Australia

PS Currently building another two 218Bee's in Ruger #1. Though one is for a mate of mine. Love this little cartridge, just in case it's not obvious!

[pitted bore]

caithness77-
I appreciate your taking the time to post your technique and preferences.

I have a couple of questions if you would be so kind:

1) It's my understanding that the Ruger #1 rifles chambered in 218 Bee have a longer throat than the usual factory chambering. Is your reamer ground to cut a throat like those in the Ruger rifles?

2) Reloading handbooks that are available to me suggest that your load of 12 grains of 2400 with a 40-grain bullet will produce muzzle velocities of about 2900-3000 fps. Are your velocities in this range?

Thank you.
--Bob

[caithness77]

Hi Bob,
Have had two factory chambered rifles and two aftermarket chamberings. As far as I'm aware the aftermarket rifles had used a standard reamer. I certainly seated the reloads at very similar depths.
I cant confirm speeds sorry, don't have a chrono. The Alliant 2400 powder was suggested years ago by another Bee owner in the States. Prior to that I used Winchester 296 and ADI 2205 powders. 2400 burns significantly cleaner and around that 12 grains has been on the money for all four rifles. It will be the load that we try on both the Bees I'm currently building.
As a matter of interest, what brand/type reloading dies do 218Bee enthusiasts use. I use the Hornady New Dimension 2 Die Set, particularly because I find the seater has a sliding collet that positions the small 40 grain pills. I've only recently become aware that Redding make a Neck Die. Thinking seriously about ordering one from Gunstop dot com, because they apparently ship internationally.

Cheers,
Stu in Australia

[Daryl]

I really liked my Hornady dies in .218 Bee and .22 Hornet. In fact, they work well for me in .17 Rem, .243, 6.5x55, .300 Win Mag, 9.3x62, 9.3x57, .376 Styer and .375H&H as well. Love them all.

[caithness77]

Ok, latest update. Have seated primers to a flush position. My #1B performed much better with only two miss fires out of 30 rounds.
The #1V had two miss fires out of five, decided to stop there rather than just wasting ammo.
Going to replace the firing pins next. All the hammer springs have been replaced on all three rifles so I believe that not to be an issue.
So now to order a few firing pins.
Will keep you all posted on progress.

Cheers,
Stu in Australia