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  #61  
Old 07-24-2014, 01:43 AM
rick w. rick w. is offline
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Glad to hear things worked out on the barrel gap routine. I bet that was a labor of love. I think sometimes most folks overlook skilled handwork with rifles in this era of fine machinery, NC, software etc etc; there still is a place for skilled folks that know how; tis not just all about the machinery really.
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  #62  
Old 07-24-2014, 04:06 AM
trotterlg trotterlg is offline
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I will tell you a little secret about action threads. At first people try to make them perfect, cut them so they match perfectly and screw in with just the smallest amount of drag with near zero lash. You will learn that what they really want to have is a fit that you would consider loose. On the barrel, the major diameter needs to be quite a bit smaller than what is thought of as a perfect thread. Cut them a little deeper than the minor diameter would require and leave the tops flat. When you screw it all together, the barrel will align it's self to the action and you will have a very nice fit with very little stress on either the barrel or the frame. But, then I am old, and you should not really believe anything your read on the internet unless you try it your self to see if it really works. Larry
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  #63  
Old 07-24-2014, 05:46 AM
georgeld georgeld is offline
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Hi Stan: Good to see you're still among us. At times I get the notion I'm gaining on it, then another train wreck
comes along. This time had a big swelling on R elbow. Had to opened up and nothing found to cause it.
Lab report says I've got Staph infection now. Of all things I don't need this is it!
How's the lil gun shooting by now?

Nice lathe work guys.
Sure wish I could figure this Enco 13x40 out so I could turn
threads with it. Has the whole set up except chasing dial.
I made a nice one but, am afraid to drill a hole into the oil box
to mount it. No indication it ever had one installed. Tailstock was offset so I'm convinced it was used for turning barrels, or at least tapers.

It's been so many yrs since I ran a lathe it was like starting from scratch.

Maybe one of his trips this way I can get Badger Bob to show me a few things and get me going.
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Last edited by georgeld; 07-24-2014 at 05:51 AM. Reason: more bs
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  #64  
Old 07-24-2014, 02:52 PM
trotterlg trotterlg is offline
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I don't use the dial at all, I just leave things engaged and reverse the lathe, to make another pass. You will never screw up a thread that way. Larry
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  #65  
Old 07-24-2014, 07:34 PM
Kiwishooter Kiwishooter is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trotterlg View Post
I don't use the dial at all, I just leave things engaged and reverse the lathe, to make another pass. You will never screw up a thread that way. Larry
That's what you have to do when your leadscrew is metric........like mine
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  #66  
Old 07-24-2014, 07:55 PM
trotterlg trotterlg is offline
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Only way this won't work is if you are wanting to cut double threads, and I have never figured out why one would want double threads on something. Larry
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  #67  
Old 07-24-2014, 10:40 PM
ab_bentley ab_bentley is offline
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On some lathes, like mine, if the thread is divisible by 8 you can throw the switch anywhere anytime and it'll cut the TPI.


I am in the camp adjacent to Larrys with the threads, I like a snug thread but not tight, but would rather have a loose thread than a tight one. The tight ones can cause trouble.

Adam

Last edited by ab_bentley; 07-24-2014 at 10:44 PM.
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  #68  
Old 07-25-2014, 12:03 AM
rick w. rick w. is offline
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I am under the impression that if your lead screw tpi divides integrally into the desired tpi to be cut, that any of the tick marks on the thread counter would give the desired result; using the half nuts engaged and disengaged during the work; as well as the cutter clearing the work during moving back to the start. I am not sure how wear of the machine figures into all of that, so I just wait for a particular mark to show up; I gots the time.

In most garage lathes, they usually have some time in grade on them, ie wear of the gears, lead screw, half nuts etc. My old dog did have a metric set of gears made for it, but I have never procured the set; thinking I will never cut a set of metric threads.

I have read that using said extra set of metric gears, that one has to engage the half nuts and keep them engaged all the time of the total thread cut. To retrieve the cutter to the beginning of the thread the lathe direction would be reversed and move the cutter back using the threading lead screw. I presume that during the moving back that the cutter is free of said threads, just a guess on my part. One would think that backlash in the machines would do a different cut on the reverse cycle than the forward one.
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  #69  
Old 07-25-2014, 12:48 AM
trotterlg trotterlg is offline
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One of the reasons Savage has such good luck with out of the box accuracy is that the barrel nut system lets the shoulder that is created by the nut align it's self with the face of the action. That and the looser fit of the threaded barrel make for a very stress free barrel/action fit. If you can true the face of the action with the threads then it will make no difference whether or not you have tight threads or not. One reason it is so important to true up a Remington action and not so much a Savage. Larry
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  #70  
Old 06-25-2016, 12:26 PM
ab_bentley ab_bentley is offline
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Bump for Rick W.

Adam
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