Well, I bought it (5 x 35 SMc)

[RareBear]

Yer cheap little camera worked well.

[Russell]

I purchased a Redding full length bushing die from:

Custom Reloading Tools LLC
P.O. Box 54
Uniondale, Indiana 46791

[montdoug]

I happen to have an old "NECO Fire-lapping Kit" I bought because I got because I had purchased a Savage 112BVSS in .25-06 that had the roughest factory barrel I've ever seen and NECO was touting the Fire-lapping process highly in "Precision Shooting". Also because I've followed about a gazillion fads and trends in the shooting sports over the years. I mention this one because it actually helped my Salvage a great deal! Further, if I had that nasty die I'd probably get the biggest bore mop I could push into the neck of the die, put it in a drill then coat it with the mid-range lapping compound out of the Fire-Lapping kit and polish the neck of that die till it smoothed up.
After polishing that die neck I'd take another run at that brass and measure it to see if a clean-up turn with a K&M neck turner might solve my problem, I'd lay odds that combination would help. All that or as mentioned call Lee and ask them about their quality control on those dies ? If a guy keeps a proper attitude it's amazing how helpful most reputable companies will be .

As to the load data you asked about I don't have a "5 x 35 SMc" but I do have a .20 Dasher which is dang awful similar ballistically and I've had great success using N540 and as I have a 1 in 11 twist, 40 grain V-Max's with my working load averaging a sedate 4,210FPS without leaning on it (rockchucks worst nightmare ).

Not sure any a that helps but, "Good luck" and keep us posted on how things go for ya.

[Mwd800]

Quick update,

I talked to Lee and they want me to send in some pictures and we will proceed from there. It looks like those dies were made in 2006. There is a local smith here that I also talked to and he said he can try to polish the dies and see if that helps.

I also got a hold of Mic McPherson and have exchanged a couple emails with him. He has dies for sale and load data as well as some helpful advice for the 5/35SMc(he certainly corrected the 5 x 35 SMc mistake quickly).

6mm BR Lapua Brass should be shipping in the next couple days and I bought 10 pounds of IMR 8208XBR today...

Productive(expensive) day I suppose.

No word on the left eject bolt as of yet.

Joe

[Mwd800]

Figured out that Savage bolts have the last 4 digits of the serial numbers. We don't have a match. He is looking. He has been very helpful and great to deal with.

Joe

[trotterlg]

The bolt head on a Savage can be assembled with the extractor on either side. Take the head off the bolt, turn it 180 degrees and put the pin back in. Larry

[Mwd800]

Thanks Larry, I will do that. The seller is still looking but if that can get me going that would be awesome.

Thanks again

Joe

[trotterlg]

The bolt head is the only part that has to do with the head spacing, so if it is changed the SN on the bolt is meaningless. Larry

[GrocMax]

Originally Posted by trotterlg

The bolt head on a Savage can be assembled with the extractor on either side. Take the head off the bolt, turn it 180 degrees and put the pin back in. Larry

While this is true, left and right eject bolts are different. Ejector should be at the bottom when looking at it, in the 4:30 or 7:30 position. If the bolt is flipped around and the ejector is at the top (Right bolt in a left hand or left eject receiver or vice-versa) poor/no ejection will result.

Proper bolt head and orientation will have the extractor claw on the eject port side, with the ejector button on the opposite side and low but not directly across from the extractor.

[jonbearman]

I have an f class with a pacnor barrel in 5 35smc myself and had to polish the die. It isn't as bad as yours but I would contact lee and ask to speak to a senior tech or one of their engineers to see if they can remake it.