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Old 05-18-2011, 01:52 PM
wally bennett wally bennett is offline
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Default Ruger two piece bolt

can anyone tell me if shims are available for the above as i would like to take a few thou off my bolt face rim and add shims in the bolt to give me NILL headspace/bolt to rim gap so when i fireform my new cases i will have no case stretching at all.
Wally
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:16 PM
Raid5 Raid5 is offline
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I made shims for my first 77 hornet to shoot factory ammo to get a got tight fit. After I rebarreled it I set the head space for the current bolt setup. On the 17AH you want it to head space on the new shoulder and not the rim. I went through a lot of brass before I figured it out.

I made the shims out of some I bought from McMaster-Carr. One of the dimensions was correct but I had to trim the other. I don't remember if it was the inside or outside. I think that there could be some benefit from truing both bolt halves. If the two were not true to the axis then there were be chances for head space problems with different loads.

Dave B.
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:58 PM
csterner csterner is offline
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ditto...McMaster Carr. I think the "correct" size is probably metric, but I went with standard size, 3/8 OD I think and reamed out the hole to fit on the bolt. The OD is the critical measurement. Can't be any larger than the bolt. You can get about 10 shims for $3, and will probably only need 1 or 2. I think I got .005" thickness and 2 shims were too tight so I only used 1. You won't be able to get "nill" headspace, or the bolt will be too tight to open. Just get it down to take the "slop" out.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:01 PM
M595NUT M595NUT is offline
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Wally-my solution isn't very technical, but I used what was available to me. I manage an auto parts store, and found that there were a variety of sizes and thicknesses of hardened washers used in brake adjusting screw assemblies on drum brake systems behind the caps. One of my customers literally has hundreds of these, and I was able to find one with perfect I.D. and O.D. and perfect thickness (in my rifle's bolt, it was .006"). It was trial and error as far as fitting and finding the correct one, but well worth it. Shrunk my groups from around 1" to around 1/2". After glass bedding the rifle, my best group to date is .197". If you can find some of these washers, they work great. I'm not sure, but I think they were 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD. I can check if you'd like.
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Old 05-18-2011, 04:10 PM
csterner csterner is offline
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that sounds about right...take your bolt apart and measure the shaft dia and outside dia before ordering anything.

Here's a useful link...

http://www.centerfirecentral.com/ruger22h.html
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:19 PM
RebelSquirrel RebelSquirrel is offline
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I've also taken the front half of the bolts on my Ruger 77/17 rimfires and squared up the head and rim area on my mills. The rimfire bolts don't tend to lock up on the face of the barrel evenly. SAAMI head space for the magnum rimfires is .056" I think (don't quote me). I square the rim area in the bolt and have milled my bolt faces to where I have a .046" head space (think thats my number) which is the average rim size (length) of the magnum rimfire cases. In so doing my 77/17's with actions faced to my lilja barrels now shoot as good or better than my M57 Cooper hmr's do. Not 100% sure on my numbers up above (+ or - .003"), would have to check my books, I have it all written down. Rugers bolts are indeed sloppy, but about 20 minutes worth of machining faced up to a good aftermarket barrel and they'll shoot tiny bugholes at 50yds (rimfires).

I haven't done a 77/hornet as of yet but it would be the same process as the riimfire bolts. Just square up the rim area inside, square off the face and add or subtract small shims until you get the hornet case headspaced where you want it. Accuracy would be left to your load and bullet seat length, nice light breaking trigger and a pillar bedded action.
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:32 PM
Alan.204 Alan.204 is offline
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I was told to check the bolt to chamber by putting a 1.5thou feeler gauge in between and closing the bolt no chance in closing the bolt its far to tight, can some one tell me what that means.

Alan.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:42 PM
M595NUT M595NUT is offline
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Red face Alan

If you're putting that feeler gauge in between the 2 bolt halves and it won't close, I would assume that yours won't need shimming. Someone may have already worked on that issue for you. Mine had play and was fixed with the aforementioned .006 "redneck" shim. The attached article by csterner shows the pin shortcomings as well. To date, I haven't messed with that, I'm really happy with how mine shoots now.
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:00 PM
Alan.204 Alan.204 is offline
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Thanks Nut i think i will check it again.

Alan.
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  #10  
Old 05-19-2011, 01:31 AM
GLWenzl GLWenzl is offline
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I would love to hear some facts, like what the ave group size was before and after messing with the 77/bolt.

Reason is Kevin weaver wanted me to try my 77/17AH out before I had him mess with the bolt. Was against my better judgment but now glad I listen to him, it shoots really well!

My 77/17 Squirrel did not shoot as well but then again it was made with a factory 700 17 Rem barrel and was good enough to kill PDs out to 200 yards

My 77/17 HM2 shoots right with my CZ 452 and Rem 504 and has probably killed more pds than all my other 17 hm2s together but the short fluted gm barrel came with shims to fit the barrel top the action….

The 77/17 HMR does pretty well too so with no bolt shimming here I was wondering if I do shim how much can I expect to gain… or would it be time not well spent??? I like to mess with this stuff too but…
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