Need advise on brass prepping idea

[GLWenzl]

What are your thoughts?

Years ago I bought two gear reduction motors for case prep... One motor runs 177 RPM and the other is 105 RPM. One motor also has a second smaller diameter shaft directly off the back of the motor.

I'm currently modifying some aluminum couplings to install a Hornady chamfer, deburing and primer pocket crimp cutter.

Would the direct drive shaft turning at motor rpm be bad to cut primer picket crimps? Create to much heat?

I already have these from years ago that I never used..

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/219...ProductFinding

And I ordered two of these yesterday

http://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/horn...ldCatid=807234

[nvreloader]

GL Wenzl

I have a motorize setup that I use with the Wilson primer pocket cutters,
and I have had NO problems doing my Ruger M-14 brass, throw away brass, LOL.

I would make sure that the cutter face that hits the bottom of the primer pocket does NOT cut, and has a flat face to bottom out over the flash hole etc.

As long as you keep everything square/true, when cutting, you are good to go.

I also have another primer pocket cutter that will cut Depth and remove the primer pocket crimp ring, and I can set the depth needed, that I use for uniforming my match brass.

The motorized unit makes life easy when prepping brass etc.

Tia,
Don

[Chickenthief]

Read of a guy trimming 223 cases and he burned cutters after less than 200 cases. It was due to high RPM and heat, mind you it was carbide cutters he destroyed!
How he did we'll never know, but it goes to show that you cant fool-proof anything, nature will gear up and create a bigger void of intelligence.

What is the rpm of your motor?

[ramos]

I would use the 105RPM output shaft, of the options you listed. I use a small lathe for all of my brass prep and spin the tools, not the brass. For uniforming primer pockets, I spin a Redding 5-flute cutter at 200-225RPM. Have done several thousand cases with this tool at that speed and it still cuts as quick and clean as it did when new. Your 1,725RPM (guessing) shaft will work well for polishing case the case mouth after chamfering. I use a magnetic nut driver head with a hex shaft in a chuck for this. Just load it with super-fine steel wool or a round piece of Scotch Brite pad. Usually have to flip or change the pad every 25 cases but, it gets the job done quickly.

[ray h]

Gary I thought the motors you got me at the same time you bought yours were 177rpm (like the one I already had)? I use a DW 7.2v hand drill and the K&M tool to do primer pockets and the speed hasn't been a problem.

[GLWenzl]

Thanks for all the good advice, appreciate it.

I had a typo, the one motor is 177 rpm (not 77). Thanks Ray, I'll correct that.

I believe the other 105 RPM is the motor with a direct drive shaft coming out the rear. They didn't specify the rpm for that but 105.7 rpm x 17.02 gear reduction =about 1800 RPM.

I was concerned that it might burn up tools which is the reason I posted the question. Didn't think of using it for polishing brass.

The 105 rpm has 30 in lb of torque
The 177 rpm had 40 in lb of torque

Once I decide what shaft will do what operation then I can make the coupling to the correct shaft size. The GD are 1/2" and I think the DD shaft was 5/16".

The motors are mounted on the same board that I have my mini chop saw mounted on that will clamp to my bench top with the dual shaft mounted in the corner so I can easily get the the rear shaft.

Thanks Ray as it was your mentoring that I have these motors in the first place and good advice that I didn't sell them a couple years ago when I wanted to clean house and get rid of what I'm not using!

[ramos]

Go with the 177RPM motor. Somewhere around 200RPM seems to be the sweet spot for many of the brass prep tasks and I bet 177 is plenty close enough. Have fun and show us what you end up with.

[GLWenzl]

Thanks for that sweet spot info.. I will get some pictures together when I'm done... Was really hoping to use both motors and all three shafts... Handle one piece of brass to remove primer crimp debur and chamfer then move on to the next.

I was about to purchase the Hornady prep station but figured for that much money I could probably spend a little time making something with the stuff I have on hand.

[ramos]

If you are like me, I think you will like your own creation better than the pre-fab offerings. Better power, more easily customized and will most likely last forever. Also, for me, it is much more comfortable working on a horizontal plane than vertical. Rig it up with a three jaw chuck and tool changes are quick and easy.

[trotterlg]

Burning up a carbide cutter cutting brass is a little far fetched. The brass will melt before the carbide even gets near soft. Larry