22 Hornet to 17 Hornet

[pwdrbrn]

Don't know if anyone is still following this post, but do you trim to 1.360 b4 you start forming or after? TIA, Tom.

[Alan in GA]

....wanting to know. A bit of trial and error would tell. I can test fire in the back yard when I get the dies...soon I hope.

[Tilleyman]

Here's a table comparing neck wall thickness between the same brands... just to keep all the case forming info in one place.

Note that PRIVI has the thickest neck walls and should therefore form the most robust 17 Hornet cases... see Median data.



All cases measured (with a Mitutoyo digital ball anvil micrometer) as 22 Hornet donor cases, except Hornady 17 Hornet cases.
If anyone has a digital ball micrometer with a small diameter anvil capable of fitting into the Hornady cases please measure up 10 cases and I'll update the chart

[Kevinj]

If you had a choice of brass to use what would it be?

[Dean2]

I use WW because it is easy to get, last forever and costs less than Rem. I also use a lot of Privi, same reason. The Rem holds more powder but I get the same velocity out of WW with less powder so I save a small fraction on powder cost too. I never anneal brass so one place Rem is better is for necking down to 17 or 20 cal. Thinner neck and softer brass forms easier.

[Alan in GA]

Thanks for all the measurements on the different hornet cases. I deleted my posts as they were not really 'on the topic' or at least not relevant to the issue. NOW that I have my own CZ in 17 Hornady Hornet the measurements and case DIFFERENCES sure are more valuable to me. I never heard of PRIVI cases but would like to try a few as it looks like they could be a good fit for the new 17 Hornady Hornet chamber(s). I'm curious as to their cost compared to the Hornady cases assuming Hornady gets the 'tapered primer pocket' issue corrected with new batch case release this month (per a Hornady tech).
Thanks for the work of posting your measurements!

[Bill K]

Graf & Sons.. has the privy.. good price and it works well and is available, last I checked/ordered some.. I would anneal it, to help it last longer, it does seem to be harder brass than Win or Rem. Bill K

[dbingen]

Originally Posted by Bill K

Graf & Sons.. has the privy.. good price and it works well and is available, last I checked/ordered some.. I would anneal it, to help it last longer, it does seem to be harder brass than Win or Rem. Bill K

I agree. When I fire form factory loads from 22 Hornet to K-Hornet, I lose a high %age to cracked neck/shoulder. I shoot them in a Hornet chamber, then anneal and then fire form to K.

[Tilleyman]

Originally Posted by Bill K

.. I would anneal it, to help it last longer, it does seem to be harder brass than Win or Rem. Bill K

See earlier in this thread, leave it as-is for initial neck forming .20 cal then .17 cal and a final pass in the .17 HH FLS die... better to be a little more rigid to prevent the neck collapsing.

Then anneal so the colours go about 5mm past the new shoulder, and you are ready to fire-form.

[Alex]

Me included, and the level of experimentation that has gone on as reported here, as well as other places, I've taken the liberty of sticking it here, at the recommendation of at least one other board member.

Enjoy!

Alex