#191
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I have been extremely satisfied with both my Redding dies and the set of Hornady dies I have used for forming 17 HH. The need for lubrication has nearly went by the way side. Point being having polished the dies way less stress is placed on the brass. Additionally I did the same procidure (Nylon brass with ample Fitz using a cordless drill for 4 minutes) of polishing the redding bullet seating die ant she now is the cats Azz for initial form procedure for fire forming 22 Hornet brass 17 HH.
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Galatians 5:22-23New Living Translation (NLT) 22 But the Holy Spirit produces this kind of fruit in our lives: love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, 23 gentleness, and self-control. There is no law against these things! |
#192
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As to necking down .22 Hornet's to .17's - either AH (or HH would be the same), I've found that a shortened .17Rem die works very well for this.
You could shorten both seating and FL dies, or might get away with just the shortened FL die, as I did. I had initially shortened the .17Rem die & a .222 die, for making .17Rocket's but I never actually completed that process to a completed rifle. I, however, found the sloping shoulder of the .17Rem case shape allows for an easy necking down .22 Hornets to .17 cal. (for a crush fit) without case loss. It's a LOT cheaper to buy a .17Rem FL die (maybe a neck sizer die would work as well) than a form set, if you are starting out in this venture to make AH's or HH's.
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Daryl |
#193
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I tried new Hornady brass in my Ruger rifle, and with Rem 6-1/2 primers, I experienced leakage around the primer pockets in about 1/3 of the cases. Using BR-4 primers, there is no sign of leakage around the primers. Accuracy with n-120 and the BR-4 primers is running around 5/8" to 3/4" for five shots at 100 yards. I just formed 50 PVRI 22Hornet cases by first running them through my 20vartarg die with the depriming rod removed, and then through my Redding 17 Hornet die. I lost five cases out of the fifty due to shoulders not forming correctly. I then annealed, and will now fireform these cases when the weather warms up. Then I will see if the PVRI brass will hold the 6-1/2 primers, and if the accuracy improves.
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#194
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I have to thank the original poster of this thread and, indeed, the many fellow contributors.
Without it I would have been at a loss to form 22PPU brass to 17HH successfully. My own technique is to neck down the 22PPU with a Redding seating die, just enough to fit it into the Redding form & trim die. Then I disassemble the bolt in my CZ527 to remove the pin. I form the 22PPU case a little but not the whole way into the die, trim slightly longer than 1.355", then remove and test for a 'crush fit' in my rifle. When the fit is right I set the locking nut and leave it at that. Run the brass up until the stop and trim to the 1.355" as recommended at the start of this thread. After annealing I have yet to lose a single piece of brass, although I'm using a slightly lighter load than many of you with only 9.8gns of N120 behind a 20gn vmax seated to 1.450" CBTO. These loads will 1" group at 100 yards with a 3/4" drop at 160 yards. For all the rabbit shooting I do here they work just fine and stop foxes with authority, something I couldn't say about the HMR. |
#195
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#196
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Well, first of all I wanted to thank those guys who did the pioneering work presented in this thread. Reading through it, I did learn a lot and it probably saved me a week or two worth of time and energy.
Going from 22 Hornet to 17 HH was just a little bit different for me. I did burn through about 50 or 60 cases in a learning curve but the last batch went without any trouble: Materials: - RCBS full length die set 17Hornet - 7/8x14 rod - bunch of WW cases to train on - various lubes (RCBS, Hornady, Imperial sizing wax, BP lube homemade) I first tried to form the cases in one go by running them into the die. Depending on the lube I did get one or two out of ten cases formed in a usable condition. The rest were just crushed before the neck could be formed completely. The next test was running them through the bullet seating die first. This eliminated a lot of the crushed cases but the second ste of forming them down to .17 ended up with a number of necks split (2/8). For some reason, the seating die did leave a rim at the case mouth. The next idea was to find a method not so hard on the brass. I did get my hand on a piece of rod that fits the reload press. First, the intermediate form step was prepared by running a 5mm core through the rod and then countersinking it with a steep profile to 5,5mm. About a min or two in the drill press with some polishing compound and a wooden dowel did clear up any bur marks. With that particular intermediate step, I only lost 2 cases in the final batch of 50 and one of them was due to paying a little too much attention to the radio. Before I start with another bunch of experiments some input would be required. How do you guys fireform? Not sure if a reduced load with wax bullet or just some plinking ammo in the 2700s would do the trick. |
#197
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My notes read fireforming with Winchester brass and VV N120 I used 10.4gr to fire form and 10.6gr VV N120 with Remington brass.
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#198
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Forgot to include this fire form is with 20gr vmax.
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#199
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I've never been a fan of Hornady brass. I bought 100 rds of Winchester factory ammo primarily to get the brass. I see where Nosler has "unprepped" (it's really seconds I've come to learn) .22 Hornet brass available for less than $.50 / piece. I also have 20 VarTarg dies that I might be able to use to take the brass down to .20 before going to .17.
Is it worth it? |
#200
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Is it worth it? Yes.
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