#1
|
|||
|
|||
More stock modifying questions
So I've dabbled in painting them so I was just wondering how you guys build up the comb or add cheek pieces and palm swells. What is best to use and what is your process? This had been pretty fun, like to keep going with it. Thanks
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I asked 3M which of their Bondo products would work on a plastic stock and this is what they told me.
"I would use the Bondo (R) Bondo-Glass for this application. You can apply this for this application up to 1/2" per application." |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I used the Bondo-Glass when making stock patterns, it holds up for stock duplicating but not sure on a hunting gun that could take hard knocks. Be sure to give it plenty of places to lock itself on to. I've drilled holes in a few stocks and forced it into them so it keyed good. Some of the factory cheap stocks resin doesn't stick very well to no matter what you do.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
stocks
If I'm doing something pretty substantial I add hard wood, usually with a industrial grade adhesive coupled with screws. Then reshape to the end product. As for bondo I use the fiberglass/bondo mixture and then finish with std plastic bondo. The Glass/bondo filler doesn't finish off really smooth so if it's going to be painted I use the second course to get it smooth. Patterns I just use the same procedure but don't use the glass filler.
Pattern for a L461/A1 varmint, used a A1 6PPC singleshot stock, lengthened the LOP and inletted for a repeater setup Pattern for a Martini 17HM2 that ended up being used as a stock, painted it and was done. Started off as a original 12/15 butt stock and forearm. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks guys, good stuff!
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
How long does bondo glass take to cure?
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
When doing a pattern I start using a chisel rough shaping when it just starting to get hard, then I usually wait 6-8 hrs to start rasping. You'll have to build up layers.
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|