22 Hornet to 17 Hornet - Page 19

Stretch · #**181** 11-24-2014, 05:27 PM

The more I work with the factory 17HH brass, the more I think I want to take the plunge - forming the 17HH from 22Hornet. I noticed that Prvi is available (now & then), but are there any recommendations on annealing?

I was hoping to not spend a ton of money on an automated setup, but it seems that may be the best way to go in the long run.

any insights shared would be appreciated - some designs may be less effective due to the rimmed case.

Thanks,
Stretch

Jingle · #**182** 11-24-2014, 06:10 PM

Just start at the beginning of this thread and read.

Its all here really.

I didn't spend alot to make 17 hornet cases from privi brass at all.. A single stage press a bullberry die to neck size, lube and a Honady die set... Tilleyman is like a rocket scientist if you want help.

Everyone has their own way of doing things but do it the way you feel comfortable.

As far as annealing go's. I just spin them over a torch for 7-8 seconds and plop them into a bowl of water, but like I said read this thread its all here.

BTW- what problems are you having with the factory brass? Is it once fired? Its it recent brass, older brass?

Stretch · #**183** 11-24-2014, 07:23 PM

Jingle - thanks, I will re-read all of the thread again. I been known to miss something once in awhile.

Regarding the brass issues, I did not experience the original problems many reported here.. over-pressure in hot environments.
However, I have had way too many shallow primer pockets - and this was on new unprimed factory brass.

I don't mind losing a case here and there - I kind of expect it, especially while shooting prairie dogs! We try to pick up all of our brass (even 17HMR cases) but some are lost. So, I guess I can do some reforming without annealing, but several knowledgeable folks here seem to strongly recommend it. I have not ventured into that process yet.

(hence the questions...)

Jingle · #**184** 11-25-2014, 02:11 AM

I was informed to anneal the necks before fireforming so that is what I have done without issues.

I learned how to size/anneal/reload & fireform all from this very thread and it was due to buying a new rifle (cz527 American) that I could not get ammo for.

trim 1.355 before annealing /FF is what I was taught.

Be safe and have fun.

PS- as I said Tilleyman is awesome and knows his stuff!

I have some Hornady new brass and a couple boxes of factory ammo (new lots) but I have not tried reloading either to see if I run into issues? I bought them after the fact when things became avalible.

If only I could find some trail boss

Jeremy(WI) · #**185** 11-25-2014, 09:31 AM

The new factory brass and ammo I have doesn't have the shallow primer pockets

Jingle · #**186** 11-25-2014, 06:04 PM

Thats good to know!

Stretch · #**187** 11-26-2014, 04:34 PM

I'm glad to hear about that!

wally bennett · #**188** 12-08-2014, 11:24 AM

Lots of people using one step re-sizing down from 22H to 17hh and some are losing cases. i use the Redding 3 die set 1st to 20 cal then to 17 cal then trim to length then full length die anneal neck and SHOULDER prior to fireforming but afterwards only anneal the neck and re-size only the ammount of neck that grips the bullet.
All cases the same method WW, R&P RWS Hornady dont use Privi brass i bought a 200 batch over 50% had badly formed or split flash holes so filed them in B1N.
I got no hole in my dies to let out the air??? so whats that about??
Wally

Jingle · #**189** 12-08-2014, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wally bennett

Lots of people using one step re-sizing down from 22H to 17hh and some are losing cases. i use the Redding 3 die set 1st to 20 cal then to 17 cal then trim to length then full length die anneal neck and SHOULDER prior to fireforming but afterwards only anneal the neck and re-size only the ammount of neck that grips the bullet.
All cases the same method WW, R&P RWS Hornady dont use Privi brass i bought a 200 batch over 50% had badly formed or split flash holes so filed them in B1N.
I got no hole in my dies to let out the air??? so whats that about??
Wally

Obviously you mst have read through this thread? Buuuuuut personally I use Privi brass and its perfect for me. Tilley cut the cases to show them and each weak point of them all and the RWS and Privi fair the best.

Concerning the "hole", Hornady 17 hornet dies have a vent/breather hole in the sizing die that must be drilled and not cleaned enough from the factory hence creating a scratch on the neck of the cases. In my example it happens after I neck size with a Bullberry 20/17 neck die then run it through the Hornady fld. Still a very fine scratch is present even after I cleaned the hole with 600 grit wet sand paper and then 3M perfect it rubbing compound, but maybe I'm being to gentle?

I haven't ran any post fireformed cases through to see if they get the scratch but I don't think this will be the case. Its just where the hole is positioned, it is located just below the neck so it picks up the edge of the cases a tiny bit if you don't get the bur out of it.

Chickenthief · #**190** 12-08-2014, 03:45 PM

The Hornady hole is a lube bleed hole to avoid shoulder wrinkles.
Wich is a cure for a nonexistent problem because shoulders and necks need no lube in the first place (for normal FL sizing!).

I too had to smoothe the bleed hole in my Hornady 17 Hornet sizer.
I guess that they make it last so the burrs is present after cutting/honing the die.