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#1
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17 Mach 1V
Well I have regressed back into the sub calibre world (first17 Rem was accquired in 1978)with the purchase of a Sako L461 in 17 Mach 1V and I must admit I know very little about it.
I was hoping for some guidance from the astute members here, Firstly to form the cases from 222 cases do I start with a 221 fireball form and trim die , I tried running the cases straight into the #1 die but ended up with badly crimped shoulders, followed by a Redding #1 form die then the 17 Mach form trim die and finally the full length Mach 1V die.? Secondly I was able to grab some 20 grain Z-Max cheapish and was hoping to use Benchmark.Am I on the right track here. Thanks for your help.
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Speed Kills |
#2
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To size down to 221 Fireball I use the Redding form die 90101 then use the 83101 form and trim die. They are then annealed then switched over to the CH4D 17 Mach IV form dies I have. Then cleaned and annealed. Full length re sized and expanded, trim to length and neck-turned. Primer pockets uniformed and deburred. Fire formed using 25gr HP. After fireformed ,cleaning and resizing the case. they then have a shallow expanding of the neck and re neck-turned as a clean up and to remove the donuts. I have more success using H4198 ( AR 2207 ) with the 20gr V-Max but use Benchmark with the 25gr V-Max
Last edited by L579; 01-15-2013 at 08:19 AM. |
#3
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I have had a brief play with my L461 17FB.
Using Rem 17FB brass, 7.5 primers, 18.5gr of Benchmark (BM2 for us Aussies) and 20gr Vmax. This is only the starting load from ADI. Thrown together 50 so far to sight in and fireforming (on fur). Has proven to be explosive on rabbits (pics on AHN). Shoots flat and is clean burning. Barrel looks clean after 20shots, no unburnt powder like the 17Rem used to show. The real load dev will start as soon as i get an IR kit for my CED. I find it odd that ADI only has 2 loads listed for the 17M4 and both 25gr. I would just use the 17FB starting loads and work up. |
#4
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got one....
I have a Pac Nor CZ 527 heavy varmint in 17 Mach IV. The 17 Fireball came out just months after but that's ok as my chamber is minimum spec....in fact we made a body die for my rifle as my Redding Dies won't size a case that has been fired in a larger chamber to fit in my chamber.
17 Fireball headspaces tight in my chamber. I read that Remington has all but cast out their own 17 Fireball and that amazes me. It is so efficient, and feeds well compared to my 17 Ack Hnt rifle. What 'makes it' and what 'fails' just doesn't make sense at times. The 17 Mach IV or Fireball could have been named the '17 Perfect' IMO. |
#5
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222-17mk4
Your components are fine, at least they are in the middle of what works. As for forming from 223/222 I have 2 sets of form dies, 222 to 221fb and 221fb to 17mk4. Using both sets I've not had a problem with the shoulders but I did have to run them through an K&M expander and neck turn. I also had to anneal before fireforming or I lost some cases to splitting necks and shoulders. The whole process is a PIA and I only bought the form sets because of the sketchy availability of 221fb brass and the fact that I have so many rifles built on that donor case. Upside is with those dies the issues of FB brass is moot, you have the ability to make what you want.
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#6
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As February is "17 Fireball Forming Month" for me.
I just started. I'm not saying my setup is perfect, but so far it's working. I started with once fired Federal military 223. or 5.56 brass. Deprimed,swaged, sized to 223, cleaned in ultrasonic. First die was 221 trim die. Well lubed case using RCBS water soluable sizing lube. I had a few wrinkles, and found my necks were crooked. So I'd size an 1/8", rotated the case 180, and sized. Seemed to keep the necks straight. Made a jig to cut excess on my table saw. using an abrasive blade, I trim three at a time. Inside chamfer, and expand the neck to fit the mandrel on my Forster trimmer and turn the outside neck to about .012. I then use a Hornady .20 neck die without the guts, and size the neck. Now I use the form and trim die for 17M4. Time to trim, and turn again and anneal. Maybe too many steps for some, but it seems to work for me. Jim |
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