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  #1  
Old 09-02-2013, 04:32 AM
wombat wombat is offline
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Default RWS / Norma brass

Hi, I am after some advice. I have a 17AH and a .17/222.
Am I able to use new RWS or Norma brass to form for these calibres?
Is this brass too hard to form?
I currently use Winchester but am not getting case longevity.
I believe that RWS or Norma - (if available over here) may be a better quality.
Thanks for any feedback from you guys.
Jay
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  #2  
Old 09-02-2013, 08:22 AM
ps500 ps500 is offline
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Save your money and get the Lapua 222 brass for your 17/222, will last longer and cost less for a great quality brass.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2013, 09:39 AM
wally bennett wally bennett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wombat View Post
Hi, I am after some advice. I have a 17AH and a .17/222.
Am I able to use new RWS or Norma brass to form for these calibres?
Is this brass too hard to form?
I currently use Winchester but am not getting case longevity.
I believe that RWS or Norma - (if available over here) may be a better quality.
Thanks for any feedback from you guys.
Jay
I have used RWS 22H brass to form 17A/H brass its a good brass but very costly i used once fired factory ammo cases saved from my Ruger 77/22H.
The capacity of R W S 22H brass formed to 17A/H is 13.9GRS of H380 with case filled to the top and settled them topped up and struck level
HDY cases 14.1gr but a big variation in case weight.
WW cases are 14.2grs
PPU are 14.5gr but the batch i bought had very badly formed flash holes.
R&P cases are 15.2gr and very cosistant in weight and the one i use mostly.
I use the Redding three step dies
Ist down to about 20 cal
2nd to 17 and trim to 1.397"
3rd to FL for fireform only and after back off the FL to only size half of the neck for future loadings
THEN ANNEAL NECK AND SHOULDER FOR FIRST LOADING but once formed i anneal the neck only after 5 fireings and am getting 15+ loads without any splits.
Wally
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2013, 08:12 PM
Alan.204 Alan.204 is offline
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I've used all what you mention Wally and to be honest I would stick with the R&P cases they seam to last as long as any of the others, no problem with the flash holes and a good price, after trying all the others I've gone back to them.

Al.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:49 PM
foxhunter foxhunter is offline
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how are you loosing brass? split necks, head separation and so. makes a difference in the answer to your question.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:13 AM
wombat wombat is offline
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Re Brass - I have had split necks - but since neck sizing has been better - but am after better? brass. Have been with win. and r&p.
Jay
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:34 AM
foxhunter foxhunter is offline
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how many thousandth difference between a loaded case neck and a fired case? how many firings before the case neck split?
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  #8  
Old 09-03-2013, 01:26 PM
MrMajestic MrMajestic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wombat View Post
Re Brass - I have had split necks - but since neck sizing has been better - but am after better? brass. Have been with win. and r&p.
Jay
Jay, I had minor issues with neck splits on R-P cases until I annealed after initial forming and before fire forming. I just fire formed W-W cases using the same procedure and lost none. I have a new Savage pre-fit barrel coming from Pac-Nor chambered in .17AH and will do the same when forming RWS stuff I have reserved for it.
IMHO, anneal before fire forming and after every firing. I don't know the count but I have many reloads on my R-P stuff after 42K PSI(QuickLoad predictions) reloads after adopting this regime.
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